Experiences of an American woman who was married to a Serb.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

The Many Faces of Belgrade (& My Tired Feet)

Just back in from my third walking tour of Belgrade in as many days. Ostensibly each tour is for the purpose of showing me the neighborhoods in Vracar and Stari Grad that I should consider for buying an apartment. But, each person takes me to "their" Belgrade.

The route is pretty much the same. Starting at St Sava Cathedral we work our way down to the outskirts of Kalemegdan Park and then back again. But what a different city each time I see!

With my sister-in-law, Belgrade was a city of food. That's where you buy the best smoked salmon, over here is a wonderful restaurant from her student days, and it never hurts to stop and eat some small cakes at this place.

At my husband's side, Belgrade became a city of bookshops. Did you know this publisher has their own chain of stores? Oh, look which author won the Book of the Year prize. Can we pop into this place to check if they have one thing? Sure, it's OK if you want to wait outside, I'll just be a minute....

Then today, walking with my friend Anja, the exact same streets were suddenly bursting with art galleries. Photographs from South America, antique Japanese tea pots, 185-years of Serb intelligentsia portraits, sculptures made from toothbrushes. Really it's too bad everything closes at 4pm on Sundays or we could have seen much, much more. Am I sure I've seen enough now to make an informed decision?

Absolutely. If I need to eat, read, or have an aesthetic experience, I'm all set. And, you know, that's really about all I demand from a city. So, Belgrade seems fine to me.


Anonymous said...

What made you abandoned Sombor and go for Belgrade?

Rosemary Bailey Brown said...

I didn't abandon Sombor, we still have our little kuca there and visit frequently for weekends and holidays. But, for us like many people from Sombor, Belgrade has a glittering allure. Sometimes you just want to live in a larger town.

Also, as my sister-in-law says, now seems like a superb time to invest in Belgrade real estate. Given the economic situation, perhaps it's better to put some of our savings into a stan instead of the bank?

jeju said...

Much better with the updates Rosemary ;) So what sort of place are you looking for, how many bedrooms, 'nova gradjna' or 'stara gradnja' also generally speaking what are the prices like?